After the ascent of the Grand Ballon, today was our next biggest challenge; the longest day so far with just over a total of 2000m of climbing. We need not have worried.
The previous afternoons run into Le Bonhomme provided us with a timely reminder of how important eating and hydration are, even in the cooler temperatures of March. A combination of a lack of food and a rapid increase in the local temperature (circa 20o) meant we both ran out of energy on the inevitable final climb into the village, and we limped, completely spent into the village. The magic word “lift” at the hotel, combined with the restorative effects of a sauna, a hearty supper, decent kip and a very big breakfast meant the strain of the previous day was soon forgotten and we departed Le Bonhomme energised and ready for the long day ahead.
We climbed out of Le Bonhomme up to Col des Bagenelles and then up to Col du Pre de Raves before ascending onto the ridge line that overlooks the La Liepvrette valley. As we walked through the wood, along this gently undulating ridge, rising to a maximum height of 1005m, we continued to see the physical evidence of the warfare; trenches, dugouts, the occasional bullet scarred tree and the odd plaque commemorating a fallen French soldier.
Later in the afternoon, after a first and then second lunch stop (maybe we are becoming hobbits) and making good progress towards Ban de Sapt, we climbed up to the Spitzemberg Memorial. Not a big climb compared to those of previous days, but very steep, along the communication saps dug in 1914 by the French prior to assaulting the German held summit. It was extremely eerie as we wound our way through the dense woodland, with the light fading and birdsong vanishing; as if nature was trying to forget the terrible events that happened on this hill, and it was easy to imagine the blue and red clad poulets of the 152nd Infantry Regiment attacking up the slope into the face of German machine gun fire.
The sheer bravery and tenacity of the French carried the day, with them taking the summit on 20 September 1914, with the loss of 8 officers and 600 other ranks. Once again, the suffering on this hill puts into perspective the often pointless concerns of our modern day lives.
After just under 10 hours (Naismith’s Rule providing a useful estimate prior to our departure) of walking we arrived in Bourros (Ban de Sapt) at the gite Acconat-Domaine du Moulin, where we wolfed down a delicious homecooked supper prepared by our welcoming hosts. No 4G and poor wifi (hence no blog) gave us the opportunity to spend a very pleasant hour chatting in our best Franglais with Karin and Patrick about our journey and the WFW, how our respective countries had been affected by COVID, and the current political situations in France and the UK. At least we think that was what we were talking about! It was welcome light relief following the rather sombre end to our walk a few hours earlier.
Comentários