Psychologically today has been fairly hard-going. Physically, despite sore feet and Isla’s shin we both feel extremely fit, but the continuous routine and at times monotony of the route can become draining. From Souchez, Armentieres (our final stop in France) is less than an hour’s drive and Ypres is only 15 minutes further on; So near, yet so far.
After leaving the B&B we climbed up a shallow hill, onto the ridge overlooking Souchez. At various points along the route, there were plaques with panoramic images of the landscape as it had looked in 1918. Souchez had been destroyed, with trench systems zigzagging their way across the ridge and the plain below. On the crest sits the Notre-Dame de Lorette, a stunning modern monument, in the form of a large ring which almost seems to hover above the landscape, a juxtaposition of the modern and traditional. The ultra-modern monument commemorating and unifying 542,000 soldiers of all nations, friend and foe alike, who fell in the Pay de Calais and Flanders region. It sits adjacent to the largest French cemetery and ossuary in the north, holding the remains of over 40,000. (Video below courtesy of Richard and Marc - cyclists)
From here, we headed down onto the Douai Plain, with huge slag heaps rising above this heavily built-up area making it look like an industrialised Giza. The nondescript towns blurred into one, Aix-Noulette, Bully-les-Mines, Grenay, Vermelles, Loos-en-Gohelle, Auchy-les-Mines, until we finally emerged once more into green fields and fresh air north of the Canal d’Aire.
A short walk from here onto Neuve Chapelle and the Portuguese Cemetery and Indian Memorial. The Battle of Neuve Chapelle took place between 10-13 March 1915, part of a bigger offensive involving both British and French Armies. The Indian Corps were committed to the battle and performed extremely well taking most of their objectives, until being forced to withdraw in the face of determined German counter-attacks. Ultimately the offensive failed due to poor communications and worsening weather, but it did prove that with detailed planning and preparation trench defences could be breached. The Indian Memorial is a beautiful and peaceful oasis, providing a fitting memorial for these fierce Indian warriors who died so far from home.
Although today has lacked historical interest and been all about digging deep and ticking down the kilometres, days such as these are not without merit. They provide an equally important opportunity to test one’s boundaries; just keep on going without giving up. Sometimes that is enough.
Another great blog. My hike took me below Neuve Chapelle (via Auber and Fromelles). I would love to have seen the Portuguese memorial. Great that you have seen both this and the Italian cemetery described a week or so earlier - easily overlooked chapters of WW1.
My version of your Gaza-esque pyramids. It was Sunday afternoon and there were locals shooting from hides nearby!
And ND de Lorette the next day (en route to Vimy). I enjoyed chatting to a couple of the gardiens there