Breakfast is a serious business for us, being the most regular, and at times largest meal of the day. Our arrival at the buffet breakfast at the Holiday Inn Express was timed to perfection, as we settled down to eat just moments before a ravenous group of English school children ran through it like a plague of voracious locusts, clearing all that was on offer within minutes. Hopefully we thought, in the nicest possible way ‘we won’t see them again’.
The previous evening, we had received some duff directions to the Grand Place, so were pleased to finally pass through as we left Arras. A rather attractive cobbled square surrounded by Flemish Baroque-style houses, it was rebuilt having largely been destroyed during the war, and on Saturday morning was home to a market bustling with shoppers despite the damp conditions. Despite the varies offerings, we were frustratingly unable to refresh our dwindling chocolate supply. The walk on from here to Vimy Ridge was uneventful, at one point trudging along farm tracks adjacent to the N17/E15 motorways. Picturesque? Not. Having been told by the guides at Beaumont Hamel that there were food and beverage vending machines in the Vimy visitor centre, we had high hopes of addressing the chocolate situation upon our arrival. Big mistake, for as we made our way down from the ridge past the preserved trenches towards the visitor centre, we saw two GB coaches and the same bunch of school children from breakfast. Despite eating everything in the hotel, they had clearly had a busy morning working up an appetite, for they also cleared out all the chocolate from the vending machine, leaving only a couple of pesky jambon et fromage rolls. Quelle horreur!
Like Beaumont Hamel, Vimy Ridge was gifted by the French to the Canadian Government, who have preserved the site as it was in 1917, to commemorate the Canadians and other Commonwealth soldiers who fought in the Second Battle of Arras, between 9th April and 16th May 1917. Vimy Ridge, although only 147m in height has commanding views over the Douai plain and was therefore considered vital ground by both sides in 1914. The Germans captured the ridge in 1914 during the ‘Race to the Sea’. Despite the French making two attempts to capture the ridge in 1915, the Germans remained doggedly in control of the high ground. The British took over the sector from the French in February 1916, and although it remained relatively quiet, extensive tunnelling operations were carried out by both sides.
In 1917, General Robert Nivelle, was appointed Commander of the French Armies, and formulated a plane to attack the Germans along the Aisne (the Chemin des Dames offensive). To divert the Germans he convinced David Lloyd George, the British Prime Minister, of the need to conduct a diversionary attack further north to draw away German divisions from the Chemin des Dame; and so was born the Battle of Arras. By this point the Canadian Corps had been posted to this sector of the front and they were given responsibility for planning and executing the assault on Vimy Ridge. The 4 Canadian and one British Division each had responsibility for a sector along a 7km front. Success of this operation can be attributed to meticulous planning, drawing on lessons learned from previous battles and extensive mining operations. Key to the plan was the use of artillery, which would allow the infantry to advance behind a coordinated creeping barrage. Units would advance, secure an objective and then to maintain momentum pass the attack onto following units. Under the Command of General Sir Julian Byng, the Canadian Corps captured most of its objectives on day 1, with the remainder including the highest point on day 2. The Germans retreated from the ridge on the 12th April.
The 200 hectare memorial is immaculately maintained, and it is easy to visualise the trench layout, with the forward battle line connected by communications trenches. Part of the tunnel system is open to the public, and our student-guide delivered an excellent narrative of how they were used during the attack. 11 assault tunnels were dug, to allow the rapid movement of men forward, casualties rearward and protection of communication lines. To maintain the element of surprise, upward of 1000 men waited in each of these tunnels for up to 36 hours prior to the assault. Even with the lights out it is difficult to imagine the scene as Canadians and British soldiers waited in near darkness for the order to advance. It must have been terrifying, with the sound of artillery falling only 8m overhead, knowing that all you could do is sit and wait.
The monument that sits on top of the highest point of the ridge is the third on our list. As we climbed the hill the sunlight reflected off Seget-limestone, such that it appeared to change colour from washed out grey to brilliant white. The memorial was designed by Walter Seymour Allward to commemorate the Canadian Expeditionary Force and its 60,000 soldiers who died and 11,00 who have no known grave. Its two arms point majestically skywards, puncturing the clouds overhead. At the centre of the front wall stands Canada Bereft. Carved from a single 30 tonne block of stone, she is a cloaked young lady who stands eyes downcast, mourning her dead. The monument is a beautiful and serene testament to those it was built to honour.
Deep in thought, we left Vimy in a stiff breeze, walking our final 6km of the day along muddy tracks to our B&B in Souchez, another town rebuilt having been destroyed during the war.
Comments