We had been discussing spending more time on the Somme as early as Day 10; after a good day yesterday and although Isla’s shin has settled over the last 36 hours, we decided to have a gentler day, walking between some of the key sites, after which we would walk back into Albert and take a train to Arras, before re-joining the route on Day 29.
Our first stop was Beaumont-Hamel, the scene of fierce fighting on the first day of the Somme. The 29th Division had been allocated this sector of the front and included within its order of battle the Newfoundland Regiment, comprising 1000 volunteers from Newfoundland (Canada), a British dominion at the time. This was an experienced Division, having seen active service in the 1915 Gallipoli campaign, landing at Cape Helles on 25th April and ‘winning 5 Victoria Crosses before breakfast’. On 1st July the Division’s objective was to capture Hawthorne Ridge and the village of Beaumont-Hamel defended by the seasoned 26th (Wutternburg) Reserve Division. Ten minutes prior to H Hour, a mine was detonated under the Hawthorne Ridge redoubt thus removing a major defensive position but unfortunately alerting the Germans that an attack was imminent. When the two leading brigades of the 29th Division went over the top they found much of the barbed wire intact and the German trenches manned. Although the attack stalled, information received at Divisional HQ indicated that some of the assault troops had been seen in the German lines, prompting the reserve to be committed. The Newfoundland Regiment advanced in the open from St Johns Street, a rear support trench, and within 20 minutes 85% of the Regiment had become casualties.
The land over which the Newfoundlanders fought was gifted to Canada after the war, and has since become a worthy memorial to their sacrifice. As with other WW1 Canadian memorials much has been left as it would have been in 1916, with the trench systems and shell craters in place. St Johns Street trench is clearly visible, as is Piccadilly, a communication trench that runs from the rear to the front line, directly beneath the Newfoundland Memorial. In 1916 this trench was full of wounded and dying men, prompting the CO of the Newfoundland Regiment to advance across open ground in clear view of the enemy. A few soldiers made it to the ‘danger tree’, a shell blasted stump in no man’s land. Standing at a replica of this tree and looking back towards the British front line it is shocking to think that within the space of 50m, over 710 officers and soldiers were killed or wounded.
Whilst at Beaumont-Hamel the wind had picked up, bringing with it an icy chill. A brisk walk across the Ancre valley, through Hamel and up to the Ulster Monument thankfully warmed us a little. The Ulster Monument commemorates the sacrifice made by the 36th (Ulster) Division on 1st July 1916. The Monument is a replica of Helen’s Tower, a well-known Ulster landmark, in whose shadow the Irish volunteers were drilled and turned into warriors. The division was responsible for approximately 2km of the front with the objective of capturing a German defensive strongpoint, known as the Schawben Redoubt. The Irish were one of the few divisions who achieved their objectives on that fateful first day. If their flanks had not been left hanging as a result of the defeat of neighbouring divisions then the Irish may well have hung on the Schwaben Redoubt. As it was, they retreated after a successful German counterattack at about 2200 that night. The 36th (Ulster) Division suffered over 5000 casualties.
From here it was a quick hike up to Thiepval, the second of the 4 significant monuments of this journey. Thiepval Village was the responsibility of the New Army 32nd Division made up of ‘Pals’ battalions. Although the Division initially took the forward German trenches, they were unable to capitalise on this as enemy machine gunners, who had survived the initial bombardment, opened fire killing and wounding the reinforcing British Infantry units. Today Thiepval ridge is topped by an imposing memorial designed by Sir Edwyn Lutyens and commemorates the 72,337 British and South African soldiers who were killed on the Somme between 1915-18 with no known grave. Silently we walked through the monument, gazing at the long lists of names and reflecting on their sacrifice. The figure of 72,337 is difficult to comprehend; effectively this represents the full capacity of Twickenham Stadium. The museum in the visitor centre is well worth a visit and helps explain the legacy left by those missing on the Somme.
By now freezing cold, we dropped into the ‘Cottage’ café for lunch, lured in by their promise of hot drinks and sandwiches on the menu. Our interest was of course short lived, as the only filling available was…‘jambon et fromage.’ They also sneakily tried to switch things up by offering a Croque Monsieur, which is nothing more than jambon et fromage in disguise as far as our weary tastebuds are concerned! The hot drinks and time out of the icy wind were reinvigorating nonetheless and fortified us on our 8km walk through the rain back into Albert.
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