We decided to combine day 24 and 25 as they were very similar days, in terrain, weather and morale! We are now heading north on the approach march towards the Somme Battlefield; one of the key milestones on this journey.
Returning to the Glade of The Armistice from Compiegne by taxi, we set off to Noyon (Day 24) a short 24 km walk through the Foret Domaniale de Laigue and then along the Canal Lateral l’Ouise to our overnight stay, at an Ibis Budget, just outside Noyon itself. Day 25 was slightly longer at 27km, which we reduced by 8km by heading directly to Rouy-le-Petit, rather than ‘dog legging’ via Ham and then following the Somme River.
The ground over which we were walking suffered immeasurable damage during WW1 at the hands of the Germans. The result of losses on the Somme and at Verdun left the German Army exhausted, struggling militarily to maintain the front. The German Chief of the General Staff, General Erich Falkehayn, who had promised victory at Verdun and failed to prevent British advances on the Somme, was relieved of command in August 1916. He was replaced by Field Marshal Paul Hindenburg, with General Erich Ludendorff as his deputy. Taking note of frontline army commanders, Hindenberg and German Supreme Army Command (OHL - Oberste Heeresleitung), decided to shorten the existing 1916 front line. In late 1916, all offensive operations were suspended, and work commenced on a heavily fortified defensive line behind the Noyon Salient, running for approximately 140km from just south of Arras, through St Quentin to just north of Soissons. From 9 February to 15 March 1917, the Germans initiated a scorched earth policy behind the existing front line, destroying villages and bridges, flooding roads, poisoning wells and cutting down trees. The civilian population were removed, and booby traps of varying sizes left to impede the advance of the Allies. Noyon cathedral was razed to the ground during this period, but its population was left in place. By the end of March 1916, the German Army had withdrawn behind the Hindenburg Line, leaving a wasteland of destruction over which the Allies would have to advance.
The Ibis Budget certainly lived up to its name, with a room just about large enough to swing a small cat in, though it was clean, and we slept fairly well. Neither of us was too concerned about the absence of breakfast as there was a McDonalds close by, and the prospect of an Egg McMuffin after twenty-four days of croissants was rather appealing. However, we had momentarily forgotten the vagaries of the French 35-hr week and long weekend and so of course it was closed! Slightly dispirited, we trudged a couple of km into Noyon and settled for our usual fayre, along with a coffee in a busy Tabac. Sense of humour restored.
As we left Noyon in cool cloudy conditions, we visited our first Commonwealth War Graves Commission cemetery, which was immaculately kept with well-tended plants and flowers growing on each grave. Most of the soldiers buried here were killed during the German Spring Offensive of 1918, many buried near where they fell. It was a very poignant moment for both of us walking amongst the graves of these young men, many of whom were killed when younger than our own children are now.
The remainder of our walk to Rouy-le-Petit was mostly along the tow path of The Canal du Nord, a blissfully flat and easy track in contrast to earlier in the day which was spent hacking through brambles and negotiating deep muddy forestry tracks. One or two sharp showers confirmed that our Altra boots, after 700km, are beginning to fail. Wet feet are now going to be a feature of this journey, so we are both praying for good weather to see us up to Nieuwpoort where we shall delight in throwing them in the bin!
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