We decided when we started not to mention hotels in detail but to have a page on the main site that covers this and other travel arrangements. However, we felt the Logis Hotel Chemin des Dames warranted a special mention. Before we arrived at Verdun we stayed in the Logis Hotel Madelin at Heudicourt, which is without doubt the best accommodation we have stayed into date, making the Chemin des Dames the worst by a country mile. The accommodation was dirty (Isla had to use her tweezers to remove someone else’s pubic hair from her bed), the food poor and the décor looked like it hadn’t been modernised since Nivelle’s offensive in 1917. To say we were glad to leave would be an understatement, which is why we were on the road by 0730.
Heading roughly east, we climbed up onto the high ground known as the Chemin des Dames (The Ladies Road). So named after King Louis XV’s daughters (Adelaide and Sophie) used this road to travel between Paris and Varonne D’argonne in the 18th Century. Today the Chemin des Dames has more sinister overtones as it refers to the 1917 Nivelle Offensive or the 2nd Battle of the Aisne. The 6th French Army was given responsibility for this sector of the line, the left flank of the attack, with the 5th Army on its right (see Day 20). On the first day of the attack (16th April 1917) The 6th Army was mauled badly by German machine gun fire, failing to make any of the primary objectives with many units being stopped within yards of their original assault trenches. Over successive days the 6th did manage to force a German retirement, but only back as far as the defences on the Chemin des Dames. Walking along this ridge line it is still possible to see evidence of gun pits and fortifications, which from their orientation and use of concrete can be assumed to be German.
Leaving the high ground we descended into Soupir, which was at the centre of 6th Army’s area of responsibility (AOR). There are 4 cemeteries surrounding this village with over 20,000 French, German and Italian soldiers buried here. The Italians fought in this sector in April 1918 and helped stem the tide of the German Spring Offensive. It is the first time (other than a brief mention of Russian troops at Spagineul) that we have come across soldiers from a nation other than France or Germany. The Italian cemetery was similarly well-maintained and provided a welcome spot for us to have a quiet moment as we ate our lunch before the heavens briefly opened.
The 1917 front runs east from Soupir to Conde-sur-Aisne (known in 1917 as the Conde Switch) and then turns north to Laffaux and Vauxillon, marking the left flank of the 6th’s AOR. We left the line at Vailly-sur-Asine and dropped onto the river path, which would take us into Soisson. It was here that we met fellow WFW walker Andrew Acland, who had messaged us via the blog, having successfully completed the first half of the WFW last year from Niewpoort to Noyon, before being forced to retire due to terrible blisters. He had spotted us from the towpath running the opposite side of the canal and having successfully garnered our attention we spent a good 30 minutes or so trading information about the route, before we wished one another well, and headed off for the final 15km into Soisson. Painful memories of the long trek through grey suburbs into Luneville flooded back. Though slightly heavy-legged and each focused on ignoring our individual aches and pains, we were pleasantly surprised to find ourselves walking along rather attractive streets of honey-stoned houses with well kept gardens. The houses increased in grandeur as we finally approached our home for the next two nights, a large property on a wide tree-lined boulevard with a rather Parisian feel.
Today was a long day (46 km), and after sorting out our admin out we found a suitable hostelry for a well-earned beer (or 2) knowing that we had a welcome rest day on Saturday.
I don’t know whether they are related but our stay at the Relais de Fleurette in Pontavert rather than staying in Corbeny was hilarious. We arrived as the heavens opened but couldn’t get in. Eventually we found our way in and we’re greeted a slightly frazzled and dishevelled Frenchman. The rooms were clean and modern but dinner was poor with just him and some poor woman who had been dragged into serve. Clearly reheated, the highlight was the cheese at then end (which reappeared at breakfast). There were 5 other solitary diners and when our host sat down at his keyboard and started singing My Way off key and out of tune, he cleared the room. We stayed out o…
...and oh no about the Chemin des Dames logis. The WFW always use it and, although dated, the food is very good. We'll let them know (discreetly of course) especially as they are one of very few in the area. In summer months the bakery next door adds extra flourish to a breakfast or lunch. Thank you for the info.
Those croissants and 'baguette fromage' wear thin after awhile! Pink fizz much better. Happy Anniversary! You're both doing tremendously well. Keep going!!
46km, ie 29 miles, AND CARRYING PACKS. Respect. Can you consider sending them on by taxi? On my trip a B&B host kindly dropped mine off in Bapaume (no longer on the official WFW route) for me and I realised what a relief it was to shoulders (and, surely, feet) to have had a day off
Those beers were very well earned! Once you pass Soissons you will be covering the ground I trod 18 months ago although the recommended route has changed a bit