In the 2008 film, Passchendale, Sergeant Michael Dunn (Paul Gross) is asked his opinion on what presents the single greatest challenge facing a soldier on the modern battlefield (France 1917). He replies, ‘The single greatest challenge facing a soldier is keeping his matches dry’. It is the simple joy of being able to light a cigarette when wet, cold and scared that he ranks above all others. So appreciate and look after the little things and let the big ‘stuff’ take care of itself.
After our usual breakfast and making up our sandwiches we hit the road in brilliant sunshine and a crisp frost, clothed in all our warm layers including hats and gloves. Heading out of Brin-sur-Seille towards the Plateau de la Rochette, we reflected on Sergeant Dunn’s words and which simple things were important to us; a pair of clean socks, carrying a Snickers bar in our packs to be administered and enjoyed when we feel a dip in energy, a skylark hovering ahead sharing its magical song, or simply a well-packed rucksack, so ensuring a (relatively) pain free walk that day. This is perhaps a life lesson that we should all remember more often, and is certainly something we intend on keeping with us upon our return home.
On the Plateau de la Rochette, we follow a trench system, which by a process of elimination (the evidence of concrete) we conclude must have been German. During August 1914, the French attacked into Germain Lorraine, losing upward of 75,000 before retreating in disarray to a line behind the Seille (French Lorraine) on 22nd August. The Germans in turn counter attacked with the aim of taking Nancy, which they failed to do. The line settled in this area after September 1914 and remained quiet for the next 4 years.
Thank heavens for the simple things mentioned above to keep us going (particularly the Snickers!) for the walk beyond the plateau was long, hot and tiring. It took us nearly 6 hours across varied but often very muddy terrain to reach the small village of Mousson (sitting proudly atop a hill overlooking the town of Pont-a-Mousson). We had clearly seen Mousson from Nomeny, when we stopped for lunch, though annoyingly no matter how much ground we covered it didn’t seem to get any closer. The final climb into the village was both long and steep and preceded an equally tortuous descent into Pont-a-Mousson, and our room for the night in the hotel at The Abbey. After 42km, this was our latest finish yet at just before 1900, which left little time to shower and tend to our weary feet before having to head out in search of a hot meal. Upon checking in, the delighted receptionist seemed rather perplexed by our muted response to her informing us that we had been upgraded from a standard to a superior room with a view of the Mosselle. The only words we heard were “up two flights of stairs” when we could barely walk another step! We hadn’t the heart to tell her that we would happily settle for our standard room on the ground floor if it meant avoiding negotiating the two flights of albeit beautiful marble stairs, which felt like Le Grand Ballon all over again..
You're making great progress..Pont a Mousson already. We won't be there until April 8th. We are due to take the same flight as you to Basel but there is a strike looming so have come up with Plan B - ferry Portsmouth to Caen and then train via Paris to Belfort and a short 44km ride to the start. Might be quicker than queuing up at Heathrow! adapt adapt adapt